Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Still climbable...

Well Laura and I tried to climb yesterday, but unfortunately the rain and warm weather took its toll on the area.  We got skunked on our attempt.  Dr. Bob and Chip were also optimistic.  My phone rang as we rolled into the lot.  It was Bob wishing happy new years and telling me he and Chip thought they'd at least drive out to try to climb.  Well Laura and I went to take a look here's what we found...

Still there, the rebuild should be fast
Well Dr. Bob and Chip were more optimistic than us.  We left and they took a walk down to check things out up close.  As per their description "Deep muck led to the ice".  They made the (wise) decision not to climb.  That was yesterday...
Today... 1/3/2011

Laura and I decided to take advantage of what the warm weather had done (opened up some winter roads).  We decided to drive to Krahlick to see how the ice weathered through the storm.  I had hiked in several weeks ago to check it out. Its not the same angle, but it gives you an idea.  It's still reasonably good.

Krahlick 12/21/2010
Krahlick 1/3/2011
Laura had never been to this location, so it was nice to get her there.  Its not that big, roughly 40' tall. Several routes put up by Ray Burnsworth back in the late '80's currently exist.  The largest center piece is Wilderness Bound WI4 and the shorter tiered section to the right is Wilderness Found WI3+.  There's potentially a nice mixed line that follows the smear on the left of W.B.  and pulls through the rock roof and finishes on the short face above.  I tried the route in 2000 but didn't have much luck at the time as it was late in the season.  It wasn't until this year that I returned to check it out again.  This time I found a nicer smear to gain access to the roof.  I put a TR on it again today to try to suss the moves and see if it would take gear.  After 2 tries on the route and no pre inspection.  I was climbing very slow and static the first time and ended up popping out of a flared crack at the lip of the roof.  The second go I moved much quicker and more dynamic making the larger ledge above the roof, but ended up having my dull pick pop during the mantle.  I was optimistic that I'd found a good "gear" route, but upon some inspection I found the rock to be loose and blocky.  I could climb it on gear and make it a dangerous route that nobody will ever try or add a bolt or 2 and make it a much safer line that others will enjoy as well.  Bummer there's only bad gear, but its like most of the other routes in the area.  Short, chossy, and FUN!  Here's a few shots of me on the route.

Going from ice to rock

Moving through the roof...

Should be a good route in the near future....  Keep posted!

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