NEW PA alpine route at Sunday School Crag

Tom Thomas engulfed in PA alpine sending this new line

Tom Thomas, Andy Shriner and myself decided to go out climbing.  As per my last post conditions looked fickle at most SWPA ice areas.  I didn't check Sunday School figuring its usually one of the first to come in.  Neither Tom nor Andy have been to Sunday School making it a good choice as a first stop towards getting some climbing done.  We had a fourth lined up for the day, but he bailed at the last minute making us an uneven 3 man team...  Not the best way to go out when conditions have been so limited and everyone wants to climb as much as possible.  We made the adventurous hike into the ice.  It's fairly steep going and... well to make this readable, I'll just call it "alpine" in style.

Tom and Andy approaching our destination

Those that have been here know exactly what I'm talking about.  After our approach, we stood before the ice laden walls.  A little boney, but definitely climbable.  In the recent years though, boney has become the standard, thus making todays conditions "in" I guess?  Either way Tom was amped up and anxious as a high strung cat to start clawing at the walls.  Understandably so having climbed here for 15+ years.  How can't one get excited with all the various options of ice between chossy, usually protectable, rock sections.  Its alpine climbing heaven (in an easily accessible, miniature form ;)   I always find the climbing reminiscent of The Black Dike in NH.  Not nearly as long, but harder, similar pitches in abundance and concentration.   Tom racked up an arsenal of screws, gear and pins while Andy flaked the rope and set up to give Tom a belay.  It was at that instant that I realized the predicament of having 3 climbers.  Tom and Andy were paired up to have a go at a surely fun line.  The reality that our ice climbing has been ultra limited and  I could be picking a plum as well.  It really bummed me out to say the least.  I WANTED to be climbing too.  May sound like a childish thing to some, if so, I guess our passions for ice climbing differ.  Its pretty high on my list of fun things in the world... Here's one of a handful of days being wasted all because of a backed out partner.  It made me realize how valuable my wonderful "better half" Laura really is.  I can't stress how much of a trooper she is.  I just wish she could've been there.  We make such a great climbing team and having her there is priceless!  So cutting my losses on climbing and being totally bummed about being partnerless.  I decided to take advantage of the great climbing talent and work on some photograpic opportunities I seldom get.  I started hiking and worked my way up around to the return of an adjacent cliff to click off some shots from different angles, hopefully documenting a first ascent.

From a distance, Andy is in blue at the base of the climb

The route looked awesome and Tom did a great job leading it for a first visit to Sunday School.  He described the opening rock section to be quirky as do most other climbers.  I found it took a few seasons to learn to read this odd style of climbing.  The rock isn't as friendly as other local rock for hooking, etc.  Slopers are the norm with some odd fractures here and there for a "thank god" moment every so often.

Tom enjoying the opening moves

Either way after a quick introduction he was into the business and working up through the rock to a steep snowfield which appeared to be in good condition.

Snow covered choss

The snow led to the base of a vertical ice section that offered some reasonable ice screws and three dimensional climbing around thin columns.

some ice...

Then more ice...

The ice ended at a steep rock cleft that offered up a piton placement before another snow ledge.  Another section of ice was above, but extremely poorly bonded. 

The rock cleft finish

Tom wisely opted to end the route at the base of this ice.  He built an ice screw anchor and Andy followed the line in fine style.  He seemed to be enjoying himself the whole way up, pulling his first "legit" pin and getting some V-thread practice in lean conditions.  I snapped quite a few photos of all the action.  Here's my photo highlight recap of the guys in action on this new unamed line at Sunday School Crag.  Congrats go out to Tom and Andy on the great new addition.

Here's Andy in action seconding...

Sunday School partial crag overview

Andy starting up the ice

Tom belaying below the delaminating upper section

Crazy Angle,  could be rotated 90 right?  

Andy Shriner enjoying a wonderful day  in PA

My artistic attempt

Conditions outlook...?

This morning I went out to check the state of ice here in SWPA. As expected everything that had been climbable now wasn't. All the wonderful ice from the last cold snap fell and everything currently on the wall is new build over the last 48 hrs. The current local forecast is for temps to be below freezing through Monday, then a warm up is predicted through the long term thereafter. Here's a few photos from today.

Gun Club, Pistol Whipped Wall - devastated

Gun Club, Main Wall - devastated

SCII, Overview - Very wet and devastated

SCII, Beast and Grand Central Walls - devastated and rebuilding

Ohiopyle State Park, Youghiogheny River - Up and roaring

Although I didn't take any photos, Meadow Run climbing areas have been wiped out as well, but are very quickly rebuilding. With  a few cold days ahead, Monday should prove to be the best day to hit the local ice.  Irishtown might have some formations up by then as well.  I'd forget Krahlick, Confluence, Layton Falls or Stewarton.  Happy hunting if looking for local, climbable ice this weekend... With a miracle the forecast for warm will change to cold and produce epic conditions!  Unlikely....but possible 

Internet Connection sees 2nd ascent

Yesterday I made plans to climb with my friend and health/rehab advisor, Andy Shriner and his friend Brad from Morgantown, WV.  Andy is a motivated rock and ice climber who moved to Morgantown from Cincinnati, OH this past year.  Andy has been chomping at the bit to get out on the local ice I've told so many stories about.  Actually Andy is fortunate to be climbing any ice this season after having been caught in an avalanche at the base of Pinnacle Gully in NH earlier this winter.  Luckily he walked (limped) away with experience, a banged up knee, and a story to tell.  Laura, my girlfriend/climbing partner decided to take a rest day Sunday, so I took a long shot and called Tom Thomas, a climbing friend from here in SWPA to see if he wanted to join our crew.  I figured he'd already made plans with others and was going to decline.  Either way I know he loves harder mixed climbs and called to invite him.  The phone conversation went something like this...  Hey Tom it's Tim, what's up?  TOM:  Tim, great to hear from you. I've been climbing a lot, like the last 6 days.  ME:  Awesome, glad you've been getting out.  Want to climb some cool mixed stuff tomorrow?  TOM:  HELL YEAH!  Where and what time do you want to meet?  ME: How about Valley Dairy in Connellsville at 9:30?  TOM:  Perfect, see you in the morning... What do I need to bring?  Never mind, I'm coming with you, who knows what we'll be getting into, I'll bring lots of shit for anything!  Cool...  

So the day was set.  We met at the SWPA climber meeting spot of Valley Dairy Restaurant in Connellsville.  Introductions were made and we enjoyed a delicious breakfast telling climbing tales and getting stoked for the day ahead.  After breakfast we went outside to pile into vehicles to head for the crag.  I followed Tom to his car to help shuttle his gear over to my car for departure and I received my first glimpse as to what Tom meant by "I'll bring lots of shit for anything."  Let me just say, he was truly prepared.  In addition to a normal "kit", his car contained multiple boots, ropes, racks and  bin full of pins, bolts, shuts, drill, etc...  Kudos Tom for some true climbing preparation!  Although we didn't use much of your massive pile this outing, we'll be needing it for establishing new test pieces when things come back in.

Andy and Tom getting ready for the long approach

We made the short 10min. drive to the South Connellsville Rod and Gun club from the restaurant.  Everyone was amazed as we pulled into the shooting range and the ice appeared in front of us.  The Pistol Whipped Wall was looking even better than a few days prior.  As much as I want to get on these they getting plenty of sun and were about ready to crash down as we were leaving.  More for future outings as usual (not a bad thing in my eyes). 

The Pistol Whipped Wall, before the sun

We walked down range to check out the lines and develop a game plan.  Everyone was stoked with the appearance of the climbs and we opted to climb in the Internet Connection area.  We went back to the car and loaded up what was needed for the days events (a very nice luxury at The Gun Club). After packing up and walking back over to the climbs, Tom was debating whether to get on Internet Connection for a send or just top tope it.  With 6 consecutive days of climbing behind him, I could easily understand his serious debate.  Internet Connection WI5 M7 is an intimidating line that starts with overhanging moves and a heel hook off the ground to get established on thin ice which is followed by many heady and powerful moves all the way to the finish.  I'm not sure I'd want to get on it without feeling reasonably fresh.  After discussion with the group and himself aloud, Tom opted to tie in and give it a go since it has only formed twice since 2007.  

Tom and Brad weighing the options

Good thing he did... Tom put on an impressive display of climbing, both mental and physical.  He inched his way up the line through sections of delicate moves, followed by powerful moves that involved verbal displays that would make Chris Sharma proud.  In the end Tom put in effort and got the job done.  He successfully sent the line becoming the 2nd ascentionist since Laura and I first sent the line back in 2007.  Here's a photo recap of Tom sending the line while being belayed by Brad.

Mixed start to thin ice

Exceptionally fat ice through this section

Nearing the top of the "Gully"

An airy, overhanging traverse to thin ice

Tom Thomas says "You really have to try this"

Working up delicate terrain

Great work on a proud send, Tom Thomas on Internet Connection WI5 M7

After Tom's great send, Brad who is relatively new to ice, but a seasoned, veteran outdoor athlete and longtime New River Gorge local; had the opportunity to second this exciting climb.  Brad put in great efforts and made his way up the line.  With a little practice and experience Brad will be a sending machine as well.  Here's a few photos that Tom snapped of Brad going up after his climb.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

After watching Tom lead Internet Connection, Andy and I walked over to climb the Alpine Ascent Gully M4 in the fattest conditions I've ever seen.  This normally boney line reminiscent of the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike, had fat ice on it.  Andy took the sharp end and led this short, but sweet line up to the ledge.  From there we dropped a top rope on a rare former I've eyed over the years.  We all took turns trying this new line and having a great day filled with sunshine.  Despite my newly injured right shoulder, I managed to join the fun and climbed Internet Connection and the top route line without hurting myself further.  I even managed to get some more mileage on my Lowa Ice Comp GTX "fruit boots."  It was a great day with friends.  Tom snagged the 2nd ascent of Internet Connection, Andy and Brad swung picks into some of the best SWPA ice of the season and I had the luxury of a fun day with some good friends.

One of the many options at The Gun Club yesterday, photo T.T.

But, the story doesn't end there... Long time friend and local legend, Ray Burnsworth showed up with his pal "Stink" the dog.  I called him early Sunday telling him of our "crew" heading out to the club and invited him  to come hang out.  He showed up and met the guys hanging out and helping to guard us from those coming to shoot and not seeing us on the wall downrange.  Thanks Rayman for keeping us alive from additional dangers most ice climbers don't have to consider...  Well there's a story after the story.  Ray not only had to protect us today, but another friend of his.  "Ig"  Read Ray's recap of our climbing day and his additional craziness on his Wildfilm Blog.

Local icon Ray Burnsworth, "don't mess with IG"

Weekend Outlook for SWPA ice climbing

Laura and I went out yesterday to climb a little and check local ice.  Here's a photo recap and suggestions for those seeking to climb the best conditions that SWPA has seen so far this season.

South Connellsville Rod and Gun Club

On most years this small privately owned crag forms up some of the best mixed climbing in SWPA.  Its always high on my "hit list" when formed up.  Current conditions have rarities "in" and ready for takers.  It's been a number of years since I've seen these mixed lines look like this.  The classic ice lines of NRA, Cave Shot, and Double Barrel need a couple more days of  cold to bring them "in".  The mixed lines Internet Connection, Alpine Ascent Gully, Cocked and Loaded as well as others are all in good shape.  They look at least as good as when the lines were first climbed.  New water routes and the recent cold snap has formed up some new unclimbed M lines that will help ease the pain of our dismal season.  

This 50M line really caught our eye

Another new formation for 2013

Internet Connection climbs up the center of the photo

Laura below Skymonkey and Internet Connection

Mixed options galore with Skymonkey and Internet Connection on R end.

L to R Cave Shot, NRA, Double Barrel

New untouched lines on the Pistol Whipped Wall

Meadow Run and Ohiopyle State Park

Here's some photos of Lower Meadow Run.  Its really not "in", but top rope options do exist.  Please take care not to destroy barely touched down pillars.  As usual the mixed lines are looking good for ascents at any time.  Hemlock will go as will the Main Flow.  An easy to get to crag with easy rigging.  A good option this weekend.

We didn't check Upper Meadow, but I'd bet it has top rope lines to be done.

Victoria Flats would most likely have ice in the Gullies.

The always fun bolted "ice" climb Winter Dutchman at Schoolhouse wall would be a good shot to try as well.

Laura below Anger Management at Lower Meadow Run

Irishtown

There are some climbs in at Irishtown as well.  The Prow is in pretty good shape, Mouth of Madness is out.  We climbed Dynamite yesterday and found the topout to be thin despite its appearance.  Dirty T is in really good shape, with bolts possibly hiding under the new ice.

Dynamite at Irishtown

SWPA has some ice to be climbed.  Better than these areas have seen thus far this season!  Hope this helps those of you looking for climbs in SWPA this weekend...

Local ice conditions photos

Some of the ice in SWPA is still in decent shape! For today...

Laura and I spent a few hours today checking some of the local ice climbing areas.  Some were in bad shape and will surely fall down, while others...  well they look good for now and will hopefully survive the warm spell ahead of us.  Today temps at the different crags varied from 46 to 36°.  The forecast is calling for temps up into the mid 50's and possibly even 60° over the weekend with cooler weather coming after that.  Looks like dry tooling until then. Speaking of dry tooling, we did spy a few new lines that may receive some attention over the warm up.  Keep posted for details on that.  For now on to the current conditions

IRISHTOWN, Lower wall

Mouth of Madness WI5- and The Prow WI3 M4R, started, but never filled in

Dynamite M6+ is waiting for you

Dirty-T M4+ ready to go...

New dry tool line? #1

New dry tool line? #2

OHIOPYLE, Lower Meadow Run

Laura walking across the bridge on approach

Ice lines are sunbaked and never fully formed

Main Flow WI3+ will need to reform

Anger Management M6 and Caveman M7 were climbable 

The start to Captain Caveman M7

Elsewhere in SWPA

This 200' beauty was sweet!

The Sick-le WI5+ M6 free hanger is 40-50' long currently and
 still not touching...Going down, in a bad way!