Late Feb ice action in SWPA

Sunday morning and WE were to meet Joel Torretti, Mike Royer and Ian Austin for some SWPA climbing.  Although the WE turned into I, but I'll get to that in a minute.  Ian is a good friend of Josh Hurst who made the trip down from Maine earlier this year to climb.  Josh's trip was fun despite the fact that it was doomed by miserable warm weather and a short, unlucky fall that basically ended his ice season.  Upon Josh's recommendation, Ian decided to hook up with our little SWPA posse to sample the ice while passing through PA from out west.  Saturday was out for me, so Ian hooked up with Joel Torretti and Mike Royer who both drove in from Central PA to work on the Upper Meadow mixed climbing.   Word is that Joel was close to sending the left var.  Currently the finish pillar on the direct route has fallen down, making the finish impossible.  Here are some photos of the crew working the line.

Joel working the project with Ian on belay, Photo by Mike Royer

Ian Austin giving it a go, photo by Mike Royer

Joel getting close to the send, photo by Mike Royer

Sunday: 

Like the post started, WE (Laura and I) were to meet the guys on Sunday to get out to some bigger lines in the area, but Saturday Laura caught ill and was in no shape to be climbing on Sunday.  She was seriously bummed out since the steepness is her preference and she had to miss what might've been one of the last days of season.  She's had a great season getting really strong and improving on her technique.  The hard work has paid off as she's been getting many compliments from other climbers about how smooth and effortless she seconds the steepest ice lines.  I hope we can squeeze in another day out since she had to miss the fun this weekend.   Get well soon sweetie, lets go climbing!  I met Joel, Mike and Ian at Valley Dairy in Connellsville.  We made our way to the crag, geared up and set off to the crag.  Mike and I snowshoed in while Joel and Ian skied in.  A foot of more of new snow had fallen overnight.  Parking this week was easier than previous trips here and we wasted no time getting to the climbing.  The climbs looked amazing.
 

End of Feb. and climbs still look great! Photo Regina Schulte-Ladbeck

Looking up the left wall Beast in center, Madrocket and Double A on left, Photo by Mike Royer 

The new snow erased any ugliness of melting snow and ice.  It looked pretty darned good.   It was decided that Ian and I would pair up for Monsta WI5+ 65m  which had made a very rare appearance and looked climbable.  It was previously top roped about 5 years ago during a fickle season when it formed only half way down the wall, but had yet to be freed.  Joel and Mike teamed up for a go on The Beast WI5+ 60m another rare former that is currently in the best shape in many years.   Since Ian had driven halfway across the country to climb here I let him have the honors of the beautiful line. 

Ian starting up Madrocket, Joel on The Beast, Photo by Regina Schulte-Ladbeck

Joel Torretti is the master of racking big for big lines... photo by Ian Austin

Ian tied in and cruised up through the fat start up to some less than ideal ice in the center portion of the route. At one point there was an amazing bulb of ice that was made for a rest.  You could actually sit down and let go, pretty cool.  He continued up the line to the overlap.  He climbed up under the overlap and placed several good screws in the solid ice against the main rock wall.  He then went to work clearing  the sicles and chopping a window through the curtain to pull the overhang and and establish on the solid ice above.  After several hundred whacks, enough was cleared to pull out onto the ice. Ian rested for a minute at the calf blowing stance, then proceeded to finish the line off. 

Ian reaching the top on Madrocket WI5+, Photo by Mike Royer

He built a  V-thread and put me on belay.  I seconded the incredibly fun line finding the climbing a little easier than expected.  Please don't misunderstand "easier"  Not that it was easy, just easier than what my visual perception of the line convinced my brain.  The climbing was very bold and committing.  Great job by Ian on a magnificent send.  

Through the final overlap, I'm nearing the belay of Madrocket WI5++, Photo Mike Royer

Topping out Ian's new line Madrocket (note the person above my right shoulder for scale) , Photo by Ian Austin

When I reached the bealy, Ian and I reveled in our happiness of such a great climb.  Time to go down. Well I think it took us longer to sort out (untangle) our ropes for the rap than the climb took.  Rats nest #1.  After some work, we got the ropes in order and made our way to the ground.  The new official name of the line dubbed "Monsta" is now Madrocket WI5++.  Joel and Mike had been working hard on The Beast.  I was up for our team.  I was planning on climbing The Beast when Joel and Mike were done, but Ian poked at me to try the line just right of Madrocket.  It appeared a little easier than Madrocket but harder than The Beast.   It was unclimbed and I like unclimbed so I decided to give it a whirl.  We had a sip of coffee and watched the other team for a minute before I started up.  Joel was on lead slowly working his way up the line.  He was not climbing as he normally would.  I could tell he wasn't going  under full power.  He made his way up a little over half way to the crux sections and just didn't have the steam to keep going.  His attempts on the mixed lines the day before got the best of him.  Wisely he backed off and came down to the ground.  Mike went up cleaning Joels screws and lowering off the thread.  Great attempt guys!  Well I was up to try a new line.  I used a similar start as Madrocket but quickly went right after the opening pillar. 

Working up through Double A WI6, Photo by Mike Royer

Last bulge before the final crux on Double A WI6, Photo by Mike Royer

My highpoint of Double-A WI6, Photo by Mike Royer

Moving up through shitty ice, large mushroomed overhangs and barely attached large pillars.  The climbing went smooth up the first 140', but I was starting to feel the pump.  I guess following Ian up the first line, then jumping right onto the 2nd line without a sufficient rest, proved too much for me.  Perched below the final crux pillar, the gear potential looked shotty and I felt Ididn't have what was needed to commit and finish.  Ian said that he'd take a go at it and lowered me to the ground.  I put him on belay and he went up.  In fine style he made his way up through what I had climbed and stood below the crux, resting a moment before proceeding to climb up into the crux.  He worked through slowly placing more screws in the final 40' than the entire lower portion of the climb.  He made it up to the "top" of the climb only to find little ice worth using for an anchor.  None the less he utilized what was there and put me on belay with the intent that when I got near the top I'd build a thread lower down in better ice. 

Ian at the belay of Double-A WI6, Photo by Regina Schulte-Ladbeck

I tied in and worked up to the crux section. 

Just below the final crux. Photo by Ian Austin

Slightly frustrated that I didn't commit and fire the line, I started the moves.  The climbing was steep, but well within my ability.  I could see why Ian was plugging screws often.  The climbing was strenuous and scary.  At one point, I was able to get a hip into a "corner" on my left. This offered a brief no hands rest mid crux.  

Yes the ice here in SWPA is a little steep. Final moves on Double-A. Photo by Ian Austin

After the rest, the  final several moves stayed solid through ice that was less than ideal.  I was a body's length below Ian at the belay.  I clipped into a screw at his feet.  I quickly built a sufficient anchor and transferred onto it.  Ian built what I believe was the most shallow thread I've ever seen.   He passed me a bundle of ropes.  It more resembled a large ball of yarn.  I set to work untangling the mess while he made a short, quick rap down to me at the new solid anchor.  This was rat nest #2 for the day and this one took top honors.  Thanks Ian, I've been slacking in my balled-up rope untangling skills!  This was a great refresher course : )  What an amazing, fun line and experience.  We talked about a name for it and came up with Double-A WI6 (Austin, Anderson) Seemed appropriate since this was our first time climbing together.

Who had more fun? Photo by Ian Austin

While Ian and I were taking on Double A, Joel and Mike decided to try Son of Beast WI5, but backed off due to poor ice.  Mike decided to try The Awakening WI5.  I didn't get to see him climb, but heard that it went very well for him.  Great work and congrats on the send Mike!  Dr. Bob and Regina made an appearance around noonish. Busy in the hole, I didn't get to talk to them.  From what I heard they decided to try The Infinite WI5, but only made part of the route. 

Dr. Bob racking up for The Infinite WI5, Photo by Regina Schulte-Ladbeck

Climber, Professor, Photographer, all around fun girl, Dr. Regina, Schulte-Ladbeck

Tough conditions and stinging snow proved too much and they decided to head back to the Burgh.  Regina has offically thown in the towel.  She said she's ready for warm rock.  I wish I could say the same.  Laura and I wish the season would continue for a few more months!  This has been an incredible season so far.  The end has to be drawing near.  This past weeked was a lot of fun.  Great job and some serious respect goes out to Ian Austin for his efforts here in PA.  If you ever get the chance to climb with him, take it. He's a great guy to share a rope with and we welcome his return to SWPA next season!

The completed new lines, Madrocket WI5 (left) and Double A WI6 (right) photo by Ian Austin

SWPA ice conditions

I spent a couple hours this AM checking Laurel Highlands ice conditions for you icehounds.  I've got some great news... Conditions are still sweet!  Read on.

Ohiopyle State Park

Lower Meadow Run is looking good and has survived the couple warm days.  Plenty of ice to be climbed this weekend.  Get on it while it lasts.  Here are the lines as walking in on the approach trail. 

Season Finale area looking good and climbable.

Hemlock L & R both very nice

Main Flow on the left is fat and the mixed lines are in perfect condition for sends

Didn't check the Upper Meadow Ampitheater on the parking side, but I'm guessing its in good shape too!

Cucumber Falls

More for novelty.  Even when formed, the 12' of climbing after the cone isn't worth doing and quite dangerous. Here's what it looks like today.  Not this season!

 

HIGH VOLUME WATER...

Irishtown is looking a lot better than it did last week when we were there.  Its fat and blue ready to be screwed.  This is the best its looked in years.

Mouth of Madness WI4+ looking good. Top might be a little thin. Take your shorties!

 

Newer to  mixed? This climb is for you!  The Prow WI3+, M4 We did it last week, great fun.  Topout left.  Sling the bent tree in the middle (seemed to work well). Take a few small TCU's for the rock between ice.  Great Turf shots at the top.

Looking out of the mine opening at the back side of Mouth of Madness, PA's version of the Mica Mine.  Its possible to climb upsidedown for hundreds of yards. (Yo! Will Gadd where are you?)

Here's another shot of the futuristic roof 40' up from the aliens on the floor!

Melting Mount Rushmore in ice aliens... Am I reaching on this one? Its MY blog...

The other areas in SWPA...

Beast Wall

The Beast WI5+/6 appears to be "in" Monsta WI5+/6 looking a little "dicey". The right var. looking safer. left looking more balls out! (to me at least)  Could build a little more by the weekend.  I'd love to try Monsta!

Looking up the lines Monsta topout in upper left corner, The Beast on the right.

Right Wall

From Left to Right, G-Gully WI4+, Final Obligation WI5, The Awakening WI5, Unamed/Graded Torretti line, World of Pain WI5+, Called on Account of Security WI4 R  All routes in reasonable condition after the warm.

Infinite Area

Shot from far away, sorry for the quality.  The left line is The Infinite WI5 looking incredible.  The SICK-le WI6 M5/6 appears to have a fracture at the lip.  Way too scary for me!  I saw it come crashing down (extremely close up) once.  That was more than enough!  I'll wait...again

Well thats my photo report on the areas I visited.  Hope it helps in your planning.  This may be our last weekend in the area, so get on it while its fat.  If you have any questions, please get in touch.  If you have conditions reports, photos you think are rad.  Anything you'd like to share, get it to me.  I'd be happy to post it up for others to see.  Thanks and hope to see you out there! -Tim

The Southerner's return to ice

Day 1 (Saturday)

What a weekend!  Hope everyone got out to enjoy the current fatness.  Ice climbing conditions were perfect in the Laurel Highlands.  Longtime climbing friend Matt Johns finally made the drive up from Kentucky for some ice climbing.  It'd been about 9 or 10 years since Matt has climbed ice.  For many years the conditions seemed to have thwarted all attempts Matt has made to come climb ice.  Well this was the year.  Laura and I were in need of another rest day and Matt needed a slight refresher on the art of ice climbing. Schoolhouse was our destination for Saturday.  After a delicious breakfast at Valley Dairy, we drove to Ohiopyle.  The road into Mitchell parking hadn't been plowed so we had to park at the main parking area in town and snwoshoe 4 miles into the climb.  Matt's an adventurous guy and Laura likes to hike so we decided it was a nice way to spend the day.

Laura and Matt starting the day. Photo TA

We set off from the parking area and the going wasn't bad the first 1.75 miles.  Snowmobiles had been down the rail trail packing the snow and making for easy travels.  Stopped by a downed tree, the easy going ended there.  Breaking trail in the deep snow was the norm the rest of the way.  I was pulling Laura's and my gear on a sled and Matt was packing his own.  It took about 2 hrs for us to reach the crag.  I had been worried about the ice conditions with all the sun beating down.  Matt and Laura had slowed down a good bit in the final 1/2 mile push to the climb.  He was very excited upon his arrival at the cliff. We found the ice in snowcone condition.  I quickly geared up and climbed the route.  I belayed Matt up as Laura took some photos. 

Matt had a good time seconding the climb and getting back onto ice after so many years.  We left it rigged on the shuts and walked down.  We took turns climbing the quickly deteriorating ice.  We finished up a little before 3 o'clock.  While packing up our gear Dr. Bob and Regina came walking up the trail to the cliff.  We briefly chatted then let them get to climbing as the route didn't appear that it would be climbable much longer.  Surprisingly the hike out felt a little better than the hike in.  At one point Laura hopped on the sled with all the gear to take the easy way out. She was grinning ear to ear during her 1/2 mile of sleighing through the woods.   She was surprised I could manage the load and her.  It was the least I could do since I didn't get her a valentines present this year.  At the car we snapped a photo and made our way to dinner at Tall Cedars in Donegal.  We all agreed that the day was a lot of fun.  The weather was warm and it was great to get Matt on the elusive route.  Remember Matt, the cliff is always 10min. away!

Laura climbing Flying Dutchman. Photo TA

One of many bent trees on the way out. Photo LH

Laura's view on the Schoolhouse shuttle. Photo LH

The happy crew

The southerner says - mmm mmm good eatin'. Sneak photo LH

Day 2 (Sunday)

We enjoyed our "casual day" Saturday saving our energy for a climbfest on Sunday.  We met Joel Torretti, Dr. Bob, Regina, Mike, and Kenny at another local cliff.  I think Matt was impressed at his first sighting of the crag.  We stopped at the top and I pointed out the different lines while Laura took some pics.

Matt & I checking out the routes. Photo LH

We made our way down to the climbs.  Matt and I decided to start the day on Called on Account of Security.  It was in the best conditions I've ever climbed it.  The normal mixed start was buried under about 12' of snow.  It was still thin through the bottom, with a huge middle pillar and a slightly thin finish.  It was a lot of fun.  

The super fat middle of Called on Account of Security WI4. Photo LH

Matt Johns seconding Called on Account of Security. Photo LH

Laura was giving Joel a belay on G Gully.  He led the initial pillar and threaded off.   Mike and Kenny did the same on the Central left pillar.  Ropes were left on all the lines while we all took turns climbing each of the lines.  After our warm ups, Joel racked up for the line he tried last week.  He quickly made his thread and pushed up the next step to below the crux.  He went up to the crux, poked around a bit and backed down to the rest stance.  This happened several times before commiting to the moves.  He worked up through on the third try, placing several screws and looking solid.   He did a great job of keeping it together and finishing what he started the week ago.  Congrats on the send Joel! What's it called?

Joel Torretti on his new unamed line. Photo LH

My goal for the weekend was to get back on my attempted route from Valentines day.  Regina and Bob finished up on Called on Account of Security and it was "Go Time"  The route looked slightly better or should I say "wetter" than last weekend.  Some new blue ice graced the top of the climb concealing the V threads from the week before, all the while making the final bulge a bit bulgier.   The water was really running on the route.  Temps were on the rise and I wasn't sure if I would get another shot next weekend or even the rest of the season.  I figured it might be my last chance.  I tied in and started up the route with Matt on the catch. 

A cool perspective of me starting up the route. Photo LH

Climbing through one of the earlier crux sections. Photo LH

I found the climbing to feel a tad easier than the previous week.  Still very commiting, but not as much work clearing the rotten shit as I had on last Sunday's attempt.  Knowing the route, I utilized all the possible rests and things went well (except for dropping my lucky BD stubbie in the snow.  Gone forever!)

Finishing up the FFA of World of Pain WI 5+  Photo LH

Matt instilled great confidence as my belayer.  I placed nowhere near the number of screws as the week before.  Pulling the final bulge and not being pumped gave me a great sense of accomplishment.  I placed an anchor screw, clipped in and relaxed.  The view from the top was sweet.  In a fine show of style Matt offered Laura to second my send.  Thanks Matt!   She did incredible showing smooth, effortless climbing.   Matt was 3rd up the line doing a great job and enjoying the climb.  I'm glad my sweetie and old buddy were in on my send.

Laura seconding World of Pain. Photo MJ

"The Southerner" Matt Johns enjoying SWPA ice. Photo LH

Mike led The Awakening with Kenny as the last line of the day.  We hiked out to the cars satisfied as the day was drawing to a close.  With some luck and cold weather we'll get in another weekend of climbing.