The TNT project, first tries

On Thursday, Tom Thomas and I set off to do some winter climbing.  The plan was to try our new project TNT, but starting on that would most likely mean being finished there as well (and in a short amount of time).  We hadn't been on the route yet, but just looking at it suggests that you won't spend very long working it before becoming spent!  We decided our first stop to be Ohiopyle State Park.  Laura and I recently established a new M5 at Lower Meadow called Open Mouth that I thought would be a good warm up before heading to the main objective for a beating.  Tom is a strong climber and quickly dispatched Open Mouth on his 2nd try thus nabbing the 2nd ascent.  Congrats to Tom for a fine climb.  Now understand, Tom's a big dude... Possibly the strongest, most nimble, "big" guy I've ever climbed with.  He's so big that on his first attempt he opted to back up the last 1/2" stainless bolt with an ice screamer just in case his mass came lobbing off onto that tiny 1/2" bolt.  (In actuality Tom accidentally used the screamer). He was climbing well and didn't expect to fall and just left the screamer on the bolt.  Shit happens.  He slipped on the last move...rrrrriiiiiipppppp The Screamer worked!   It lessened the impact of his fall on the bolt as well as me belaying.  Thanks for using the screamer Tom.  I never knew catching a "big" guy could be so smooth!  From now on I'm going to recommend everyone use screamers on every clip when I belay for them ;)  Truthfully I just don't think Tom trusts my bolting and used the screamer ;)

Tom Thomas starting up Open Mouth M5

Tom Thomas on Open Mouth M5

After finishing our "warm up" we did a drive by at Cucumber Falls to see how the falls looked.  Tom's never climbed it and was disappointed he didn't climb it when it was in previous.  It was roaring open down the center, but the right edge was solid enough.  Tom jumped on and made a quick solo up for the novelty of it.  Here's a shot of him climbing in this beautiful setting!

Tom Thomas ropeless on Cucumber

 After Tom's Cucumber fun, we made the trek to the project.  He gratuitously offered me the first go and I gladly accepted.  Only one shot for the onsight and this was it!  I'll admit I wasn't too optimistic after climbing only two weeks.  I feel pretty weak have an obvious long journey towards getting back to where I was 2 seasons ago.  I was hoping to merely be able to pull into the start without injuring one of my shoulders again.  I tied in, then did my pre-climb jumping and flapping about.  I pull onto the climb.  Shoulders  working, no pain, cool!  I picked my way up good hooks to a point where I could stem out to the free hanger.  Passing the first bolt, way better than I anticipated. 

I continued up to a clipping stance for bolt #2.  Got it!  I strenuously traverse the free hanger and ice blobs, passing bolt #3 in the roof.  

A bit more traverse and then with a lucky one-swing stick in a lone blob I maneuvered into position and (very loudly) clipped bolt #4.  This was where the business of this line begins... and my efforts fail.  I tried to grovel my way higher, but was thoroughly spent as the climb easily bitch-slapped me off!  I was thrilled to make it as high as I did.  Tom lowered me down and was giggling like a school girl, congratulating me on a strong effort.  He was obviously very excited to be up for a go.  This new project was to be the maiden voyage for his new fruit boots.  He tied in, psyched himself up and set off.  He pulled his way through the opening moves and traversed the ice up to the 3rd bolt before the climb got the best of him.  A great effort.  We both took a second try only to repeat our previous efforts. Here are a few shots of Tom in action.

Despite out best efforts this line worked us over the first day.  We had a great time enjoying the stellar SWPA ice conditions.  We'll see if it get many more attempts this season (weather dependent)....

Pistol Whipped in Connellsville

Laura, Ray and I spent a few hours out at the South Connellsville Rod and Gun Club.  Other than spending a day there last year when Tom Thomas repeated Internet Connection, we haven't visited the Gun Club (for ice climbing) in a couple of years.  We met for breakfast at Valley Dairy, then set off for "The Club".

From the car the down range routes looked decent... Up close they were much more chandeliered.  

We scoped a few routes, but decided we should try some lines on the Pistol-Whipped Wall before the sun brought them down.  These lines have been looked at over the years, but never quite formed to my or any would be ascentionists likings.  This wall gets blasted by sun.  The recent weather trends as well as abundant ground water formed up the wall better than I've ever seen it.  It was formed, but baking fast.  I'll be the first to admit, I'm a pretty big chicken when it comes to sun and ice, especially here in SWPA where I've seen my share of collapses and have the bumps and scars to prove it.   I prefer routes in the shade, but these looked very cool and who knows when they'll be like this again.  I decided to skip the sharp end and go with the safety of a top rope.

The routes were a lot of fun and very cool.  Today's conditions involved about 10' of mixed climbing to gain the candlesticked ice.  Once on the ice, it was straight forward pillar climbing, but very "early season" and baking fast.  I climbed the lines three times two different ways before it became the consistency of a snow cone.   Too bad the ice on this wall faces directly into the sun.  It would be such an amazing wall for mixed and pure, steep ice routes in the 4+ to 5+ range up to 100'.

Photos, courtesy of Ray Burnsworth with Wildfilm Productions. 

NEW SWPA mixed line, Open Mouth M5

Laura and I got around to finishing off a new mixed route at Lower Meadow Run in Ohiopyle State Park.  It's the line just right of Season Finale.  The line is called Open Mouth and is graded M5.  It starts on a short pillar of ice, then follows the rock up through the inside corner passing 2 bolts to the shuts.   Like other lines at Meadow Run its short, but don't let that deter you from the fun of this really good line.  This line feels easier than the other mixed lines there.  Most likely this is the easiest mixed line currently in Ohiopyle.  This should be a perfect line for the aspiring mixed climbers.  New and awaiting a second ascent.  Here's a few shots of Laura seconding the first ascent.  

Laura starting up the ice

Transition to the rock corner

Getting into the business

Sunday excitement!

The plan today was to finish equipping Open Mouth at Lower Meadow.  Check!  Complete with 2 bolts and open shuts.  Might need another bolt, time will tell.  It was snowing a very wet snow that had me soaked by the time I was done working.  We wanted to check conditions elsewhere, so we packed up with plans to come test out the new hardware tomorrow.

We drove up to the ridge where the weather was a little worse than Ohiopyle. Here's a few photos from our walk to check conditions.

After our short, but fun hike to check conditions, we ended up meeting our good buddy Ray Burnsworth at Bud Murphy's in Connellsville for some dinner. A few minutes after Ray showed up in walks JJ Fiesta and his girlfriend Chrissy. They sat in the booth behind us and we chatted with them a few minutes.  Then we noticed the life of the party Big Bad Bill Fiesta walking around the bar looking a little tuned already.  We gave him a shout and he joined our little C'ville reunion.  What followed was a few hours of laughter, pizza, beers, 7 shots of Firewater for Laura and even some karaoke.  What an awesome Sunday!

Yesterday Ray passed along these conditions photos of the South Connellsville Rod and Gun Club.  Figured I post them for all to enjoy!

Down range Wall

Pistol Whipped Wall

Skymonkey Wall

Definitely some sick stuff making an appearance on the Pistol Whipped Wall this year.  This looks like the year to enjoy some new lines here!  I believe that'll take care of plans for Wednesday...  Thanks for the photos Rayman!

The aches and pains of new routes

Tom Thomas getting work done

Ugh, my kidneys are killin' me...  You're up... Were words heard frequently where local Pennsylvania climber Tom Thomas and myself set to work on rigging an incredible new mixed line.  After a quick breakfast at Valley Dairy in Connellsville, Tom and I set off to a line I showed him last week.  We spent the better part of the day pulling off aid moves that go against "common" practice and drilling from awkward positions.  Not that I recommended this, but in a pinch the bottom rests of Petzl Nomics will support body weight aid moves if done while thinking that you're lighter than you actually are... Also, All rests on the two tools incorporated with a 48" sling can be used to z drag traverse in some instances as I learned yesterday.  

How not to use Nomics

Here are various photos of us at work;

Tom, aided like a champ through some manky pins to gain a crucial point towards getting the project done.  It was a hell of an effort and when it was all said and done we were far, far to spent to even give it a go.  Tom offered to clean our work lines and top out, which is way harder than I could describe in a few words.  I bore the task of hiking all the kit (well over 100lbs.) back up to the car.  I'm not sure who had the harder task, but in the end we were grinning.  After we recover from the aches and pains of setting this new line... We'll give it a well deserved go.

Yes, there are harder lines... Much harder!

Where is this magic line?  Either one of us would be happy to tell you... in person out at the crags.  Happy climbing!

Mixed up in Ohiopyle

Yesterday around a foot of snow fell on the Laurel Highlands blanketing the forest in white fluff.   This morning I decided to head to Ohiopyle for the return of winter and revisit a route that needed a little equipping.  Needless to say, the route is named Open Mouth and will fall in around M6.   Sadly I didn't get much work done due to technical circumstances outside my control.  After work came to a hault, I opted to climb it on top rope.  The climb felt as akward and quirky as the last time I was on it.  This one looks rather easy from the ground, but proves to be a little less  than straight forward.  Can't wait to finish this one and see folks enjoying it.  Below is photo of me trying to get this thing rigged.

Most of the lines are in at Lower Meadow Run.  The pure ice routes are a little wet and building.  Water was running and making things bigger on Main Flow WI3 and Hemlock WI4-.  Anger Management M6 looks great and would feel a bit soft given the ice formation.  Caveman M6 looks awesome as well.  The Flows 2+ are fat.  Things are looking good despite the warm up over the weekend.  Most of the mixed climbs are in the best shape they've been in years.  Caveman extension M7 would most likely go in its current state, for sure by the weekend!  Come out to Ohiopyle and enjoy the great ice and mixed lines...

The return to winter

I'm having a great time easing back into ice climbing.  My shoulders aren't bothering me too much and I'm able to still climb a little.  Everything so far has been short top roped stuff, but it sure does put a smile on my face just to be out again.  Here are recent conditions photos from some of my favorites here in SWPA.

Sunday School Crag

South Connellsville Gun Club

SCII

Ohiopyle State park

My project this year!