The Southerner's return to ice

Day 1 (Saturday)

What a weekend!  Hope everyone got out to enjoy the current fatness.  Ice climbing conditions were perfect in the Laurel Highlands.  Longtime climbing friend Matt Johns finally made the drive up from Kentucky for some ice climbing.  It'd been about 9 or 10 years since Matt has climbed ice.  For many years the conditions seemed to have thwarted all attempts Matt has made to come climb ice.  Well this was the year.  Laura and I were in need of another rest day and Matt needed a slight refresher on the art of ice climbing. Schoolhouse was our destination for Saturday.  After a delicious breakfast at Valley Dairy, we drove to Ohiopyle.  The road into Mitchell parking hadn't been plowed so we had to park at the main parking area in town and snwoshoe 4 miles into the climb.  Matt's an adventurous guy and Laura likes to hike so we decided it was a nice way to spend the day.

Laura and Matt starting the day. Photo TA

We set off from the parking area and the going wasn't bad the first 1.75 miles.  Snowmobiles had been down the rail trail packing the snow and making for easy travels.  Stopped by a downed tree, the easy going ended there.  Breaking trail in the deep snow was the norm the rest of the way.  I was pulling Laura's and my gear on a sled and Matt was packing his own.  It took about 2 hrs for us to reach the crag.  I had been worried about the ice conditions with all the sun beating down.  Matt and Laura had slowed down a good bit in the final 1/2 mile push to the climb.  He was very excited upon his arrival at the cliff. We found the ice in snowcone condition.  I quickly geared up and climbed the route.  I belayed Matt up as Laura took some photos. 

Matt had a good time seconding the climb and getting back onto ice after so many years.  We left it rigged on the shuts and walked down.  We took turns climbing the quickly deteriorating ice.  We finished up a little before 3 o'clock.  While packing up our gear Dr. Bob and Regina came walking up the trail to the cliff.  We briefly chatted then let them get to climbing as the route didn't appear that it would be climbable much longer.  Surprisingly the hike out felt a little better than the hike in.  At one point Laura hopped on the sled with all the gear to take the easy way out. She was grinning ear to ear during her 1/2 mile of sleighing through the woods.   She was surprised I could manage the load and her.  It was the least I could do since I didn't get her a valentines present this year.  At the car we snapped a photo and made our way to dinner at Tall Cedars in Donegal.  We all agreed that the day was a lot of fun.  The weather was warm and it was great to get Matt on the elusive route.  Remember Matt, the cliff is always 10min. away!

Laura climbing Flying Dutchman. Photo TA

One of many bent trees on the way out. Photo LH

Laura's view on the Schoolhouse shuttle. Photo LH

The happy crew

The southerner says - mmm mmm good eatin'. Sneak photo LH

Day 2 (Sunday)

We enjoyed our "casual day" Saturday saving our energy for a climbfest on Sunday.  We met Joel Torretti, Dr. Bob, Regina, Mike, and Kenny at another local cliff.  I think Matt was impressed at his first sighting of the crag.  We stopped at the top and I pointed out the different lines while Laura took some pics.

Matt & I checking out the routes. Photo LH

We made our way down to the climbs.  Matt and I decided to start the day on Called on Account of Security.  It was in the best conditions I've ever climbed it.  The normal mixed start was buried under about 12' of snow.  It was still thin through the bottom, with a huge middle pillar and a slightly thin finish.  It was a lot of fun.  

The super fat middle of Called on Account of Security WI4. Photo LH

Matt Johns seconding Called on Account of Security. Photo LH

Laura was giving Joel a belay on G Gully.  He led the initial pillar and threaded off.   Mike and Kenny did the same on the Central left pillar.  Ropes were left on all the lines while we all took turns climbing each of the lines.  After our warm ups, Joel racked up for the line he tried last week.  He quickly made his thread and pushed up the next step to below the crux.  He went up to the crux, poked around a bit and backed down to the rest stance.  This happened several times before commiting to the moves.  He worked up through on the third try, placing several screws and looking solid.   He did a great job of keeping it together and finishing what he started the week ago.  Congrats on the send Joel! What's it called?

Joel Torretti on his new unamed line. Photo LH

My goal for the weekend was to get back on my attempted route from Valentines day.  Regina and Bob finished up on Called on Account of Security and it was "Go Time"  The route looked slightly better or should I say "wetter" than last weekend.  Some new blue ice graced the top of the climb concealing the V threads from the week before, all the while making the final bulge a bit bulgier.   The water was really running on the route.  Temps were on the rise and I wasn't sure if I would get another shot next weekend or even the rest of the season.  I figured it might be my last chance.  I tied in and started up the route with Matt on the catch. 

A cool perspective of me starting up the route. Photo LH

Climbing through one of the earlier crux sections. Photo LH

I found the climbing to feel a tad easier than the previous week.  Still very commiting, but not as much work clearing the rotten shit as I had on last Sunday's attempt.  Knowing the route, I utilized all the possible rests and things went well (except for dropping my lucky BD stubbie in the snow.  Gone forever!)

Finishing up the FFA of World of Pain WI 5+  Photo LH

Matt instilled great confidence as my belayer.  I placed nowhere near the number of screws as the week before.  Pulling the final bulge and not being pumped gave me a great sense of accomplishment.  I placed an anchor screw, clipped in and relaxed.  The view from the top was sweet.  In a fine show of style Matt offered Laura to second my send.  Thanks Matt!   She did incredible showing smooth, effortless climbing.   Matt was 3rd up the line doing a great job and enjoying the climb.  I'm glad my sweetie and old buddy were in on my send.

Laura seconding World of Pain. Photo MJ

"The Southerner" Matt Johns enjoying SWPA ice. Photo LH

Mike led The Awakening with Kenny as the last line of the day.  We hiked out to the cars satisfied as the day was drawing to a close.  With some luck and cold weather we'll get in another weekend of climbing.

Incredible V-day ice climbing

It was Valentine's Day ♥ and my sweetie asked for a hard steep line as her present.  Being a lover... I did my best to deliver.  For years I've refered to it as "big blue". A tall steep line that has seen only a couple TR ascents. I decided it looked good enough and took the plunge to go for the FFA.  It was Joel Torretti, his friend Matt, Ray, Laura and I today.  Laura and I arrived first and like last week we went to work on shovel duty.  We shoveled for about 30min to clear enough space for the 3 vehicles to be off the road enough for others to pass.   The snow is very deep up there.   We stopped to check the snow depth and sunk a fully extended trekking pole to the grip.

Laura and Ray snowshoeing to the climbs

After the miserable approach last weekend Laura, Ray and I opted to snowshoe in.  Joel, was on skis and Matt on his snowboard. The climbs looked amazing.  The temps were reasonable around 20° and the wind wasn't blowing too much.  The snow was so deep that Matt took advantage and did two new first descents, one down each side.

Matt midway down his run

At the bottom first snowboard descent

We setup to take a go at the new line while Joel and Matt roped up for The Awakening WI5.   I took my first go.  The ice was brittle and quite aerated.  The first good screw was up about 35'.  The route was taking a lot of effort to clean and made progress slow up the manky ice.  The climbing was burly and relentless.  I ended up hanging on a screw part way up.   I didn't find much "good" ice for screws.  I placed many, but trusted few.  Engergy was wasted trying to get good gear only to find they were mostly worthless screws.  Flash pump set in and made it hard to recover from that point on.  I made about 2/3 of the wall before I lowered off to take a break and have another look at which way to take the line as the climbing was quite commiting and a lot of work and I didn't want to end up in no man's land. 

 

Starting up the route

It was Valentines day and Laura was standing down there belaying for an eternity while I made slow progress to my high point.  I felt bad for taking so long.  What a trooper!  She stands on countless long belays while I thrash my way upwards.  She's always supportive and cheering me on in my times of need.  I feel lucky to have such a great partner and girlfriend.  I headed down and took over the belay.  Laura did a great job on her go.  It was pumpy for her and she hung a few times but worked up fluidly to my highpoint. 

Laura starting up the line

She came down pumped and exhausted.  We were hunkered down under a tarp at the bottom of the climb.  I had a sip of coffee and we rested for a spell.  Ray snapped this shot of us.

We're sitting under the black tarp at the bottom.  Happy Valentine's Day

I tied back in and started up.  The climbing was better after two of us had been on it.  I quickly climbed up to my high point.  Once again I was on back on the steep arm blowing climbing that required a lot of clearing and hard work.  The steepness was relentless with mostly overhanging candlestick and rotten stuff.  This was obviously the crux of the route and it continued for a while.  I slowly made my way up the crux pillar wasting engergy on bad screws.  I found myself working through the overhang about 6' below the easier climbing at the top when I lobbed off.  Yep, I took a fall, no success or true glory for me.  I was upset with myself for not hanging in there, but I just didn't have it.  I worked back up to my pro and rested for a minute before firing through the bulge only to place a screw at the lip and pumping myself into a hang.  Once again I got back on and finished it up to the end.  I threaded, backed it up and lowered off.  On the ground I realized how wasted I was.  It put me in a "World of Pain".  No more for me. 

Mid crux on my second attempt

just about through the overhanging bulge

Seemed hard to me...

Laura was up for a go at the whole line.  She did amazing.  She seconded the line with only 3 hangs. Laura is a strong climber with only a couple years of ice experience.   

Laura on her Valentine's Day present

Here's a few shots of Joel and Matt working a few lines.

Joel on The Awakening, Matt Belaying and Ray taking photos

Joel working on an unclimbed line

Last but not least a few random photos from the day

Matt getting ready for the day

Almost back to the car

Me and my valentine!

It was Valentines Day, I didn't get the clean send, but it was a lot of fun trying.  Upon our return home I realized just how hard the climbing was.  The aches were setting in.   "Big Blue" is now being dubbed "World of Pain" How hard is it?  After a little discussion we think it falls in around WI5+ possibly WI6.  The grade is irrelavant.  Its solid, commiting and lots of frightening fun. I can say its much harder and susatained than my other recent climbs.  I'd say 5+ would be conservative. Only time will tell.  We'll be back next week to give it another go (weather permitting)!  The 10 day weather outlook is good.  Below freezing temps will keep the ice in its current conditon or better.  Hope everyone is taking full advantage of this great winter we're having.

The Infinite WI5 FFA

The Infinite WI5 Photo by Ray Burnsworth

As I write this blog entry, I sit here tired and satisfied with today's adventure.  28" of new snow fell on the Laurel Highlands from Friday at noon until Saturday at 5:00pm.  Roads were in bad shape. Snow was to most, a major nuisance.  As the events of our Sunday unfolded, we began to agree with the "most".   The cold weather has brought new vigor to the ice climbing in SWPA.  Everything is back in good condition and almost could be considered FAT.  Ray, Laura and I hit up our usual Sunday spot only to find the usual 2 lane road slightly larger than one lane.  Ray was already there "parked" in the middle of the road.  A 4' wall of snow denied us of our usually easy place to park.  After numerous attempted rammings with the whip, we resorted to 40 minutes of shovel duty to clear enough room to park and allow a car to pass.

We took Ray and his car elsewhere to park, otherwise we would have been shoveling X2.  We returned to find that someone had shown up to climb and taken advantage of our hard labor.  There was a red Jeep Cherokee parked right in our spot (Gotcha...I'm only kidding) Our spot was still clear and we parked without incident.  The car was officially parked.  All we had to do now was hike in and climb.  Not that easy.  Today was the worst approach I've ever encountered at our little local crag.  Our approach is normally a leisurely 15min. stroll.  Today it was 45 min. of post holeing in 3+ feet of snow.  I've never sweated so much going downhill.  It was a balmy 10° as we reached the base of our climb hot, soaked and miserable.  I was first one there, so I proceed to stamp out an area for the 3 of us to inhabit while we got ready to climb and for Ray to shoot some video from.  You can check out some of his stuff here Wildfilm Productions

Ray Burnsworth ready to video at camp2

I chose to try the line left of The Sick-le again.  It rejected Joel Torretti and I about a month ago.  We tried to send it, but were both utlimately shut down.   The line had been top roped several times over the years, but it still eluded a FFA.  The climbing is often found to be much harder and steeper than expected.  A common reaction is "That thing is overhung!"  I can't say if its truly overhung, but it is steep and funkified right now.  The single digit temps, large amounts of snow, and a nice feed of water has formed this line into a wild 3D landscape.    The climb went very well despite the mass removal of crust, snow and daggers.  The pitch was demanding.  It was apprx. 100' long and took 1hr and 10min to complete.

My gloves were soaked and in serious need of wax on the palms.  The snow on my unwaxed palms had me climbing up on my 2nd grips where I seemed to not be slipping off as much.  I lowered from a couple screws and Laura tied in to 2nd.  She loved the climb.  She found the climb to be a lot of fun and opted to take a second lap hooking up through the blobs and sicles. 

When she came down I went up, Threaded it out and lowered off.  We decided to name the route The Infinite WI5.  Due to the infinite amount of snow we received on attempted days.  We packed up our gear and made the uphill trudge out.  It was nice to have broken trail downhill on the way in.  It made the uphill at least slightly better than it could've been.

Laura post climb, 10° and wearing puffy pants

Still it took waaaaaay longer than normal.  The large snowfall made the day a little harder on us, but the beautiful landscape, great climbing and friends made it worth the efforts.  Hope your day was just as good!  Cheers

The happy climbing couple

Next week. A Sick-le attempt? Its almost in...

A few phtos Ray took today

Flying Dutchman WI4 FFA

Yesterday I spent the day exploring upstream along the Youghiogheny River from Stewarton.  I am happy to report that I found several nice flows coming over the small outcrops.  Most were in the WI2 to WI3+ range.  With sufficient cold weather I think the flows would form up fat and be great fun.  Not sure if they've ever been climbed or not.  The approach is easy (along the railroad tracks) and the flows start less than 10min from the car.  Get in touch if you'd like more info on these.  Just before Bear Run, I was looking across the river at Maple Wall and School House Crag.  Not much to report at Maple Wall, but as I got in closer view to School House, it came out of nowhere.  ICE.  It appeared to be on the left side of the cliff about where the rock route Flying Dutchman would be.  I was in awe at how cool this would be if one of the best crags in the area had ice routes too.  I was stoked.  Wearing my ice boots and pack as if for a typical ice day, I set off running the 2 miles back to the car.  I had to hurry, I only had a few hours to get back to the car.  Drive all the way around to Bruner Run, run the 1.75miles upstream and still be home in time for obligations.  Well upon arrival of the gate, I found it to be locked and couldn't drive down to the parking area.  So I figured it was not meant to be and made my way home dreaming of what could be waiting to be climbed.  I immediately called Laura and told her of my findings.  We decided to get out early the next morning to seek out the potential.  We awoke today full of vigor.  We drove to Ohiopyle and made the 30min downhill walk to the rail trail from The Mitchell Place parking area.  Upon reaching the rail trail we had our first find of the day.  It was a cool 45' flow right where they have the information sign about coal mining history in the area.

It appeared to be 35' to 40' tall and about WI 3+  For those that love the Lower Meadow ice flows, This should be your next destination.  It was thick enough to lead, but the topout was washed out pretty good.  With visions of bigger and better we continued on our way downstream and saved that one for another day.  Well just before Schoolhouse we had find #2. 

It was a cascading waterfall directly across from the RE (Rivers End) trail marker.  I figured it would freeze up nicely with a reasonable cold snap.  It had a fair amount of ice, but wasn't there yet.  I'm sure by next week both this flow and the Coal Wall should be very climbable.  After looking at River End flow, we continued down the trail.  School House came into view.  I was pleasantly surprised. 

There was definately  a route formed up.  It was right over the rock route Flying Dutchman.  I could see the first and last bolt, but the rest were buried under ice.  The sun was hitting it hard.  It looked baked and unstable, but I couldn't pass the opportunity to climb it.  Who knows how often it comes in.  Laura and I put it into high gear.  We quickly set up and got to climbing.   I climbed up to the first bolt clipped it and felt a little better.  With every swing the ice was sending the eeerie sounds of serious hollow delamination.  I gently (and quickly) climbed the line placing a couple worthless screws and happily clipped the last bolt before topping out the 70' line.

Laura tied in and followed up in fine fashion smiling the whole way.  We had a blast.  The climbing was good.  Almost too much fun.  We figured the route name shouldn't change and the grade was about WI4.  As we left to hike out the route was looking bad and didn't look like it would last the day, but who knows.  The forcast looks very promising through next week.  If you're feeling adventurous check out these newly discovered areas.  The river left crags get sun, The river right crags (stewarton side) doesn't.  If you're planning to climb in the area, these flows now present even more options in the Ohiopyle area.  Here are a few pics I snapped of Laura on her way up Flying Dutchman WI4

Chillaxin' at Meadow Run

Laura and I decided to have an easy day.  So we spent the morning climbing a few lines at Lower Meadow Run in Ohiopyle State Park.  We warmed up with a lap on the Main Flow in very good conditions. If you look back to my post from Jan 29th and compare the photos, its pretty impressive how much ice built in just a few days.  

After our warm up, Laura wanted to try out her new picks on a mixed line.  She topped out on the Main Flow and went over and rigged a TR Season Finale.  She took her turn and made it up to her usual high point and came off.  Not bad for her first go. 

ROUTE NOTE:  Although this line has been top roped for years it has yet to see a lead ascent.   I've wanted to give this thing a whirl for quite a while, but the thuggish nature, poor rock quality and my inability to sack up has kept it as a someday kinda thing.  Well I decided its time to put it to rest.  So this time I decided to take gear with me and see if I could find reasonable gear to protect the route.  Well I successfully climbed it and placed the gear on TR.  I found 2 placements and 1 stubbie in 35'.  Goes like this,  first is the screw at the ice bulge (not necessary, but there),  next is a #5 BD micro at 15'.  Pump through the next 12' of crux to a good hook and a get the #.75 camalot.  Finish at anchors.  Falling while clipping the cam would most likely result in a grounder. Gonna take some EXTRA spinach to pull this one off.  Laura went again pulling the gear as she went up.  She did way better this go.  She made it  up to the cam without falling.  If she didn't have to stop to fuss with gear, I think she might've had it with no falls.  I'm anxious to to head back and give it a true attempt on lead. SEND or SPLAT!  Either way the photos should be good!  Since it was a mellow day for us, most of the photos are typical ass shots (we all know how much everyone loves those).  I've tried to include a few of the more interesting!